THWT HDMI 2.0 4K EDID Emulator (Model: HD-EWB), Support EDID Copy and Emulation, HDCP Passthrough, PreSET EDID is 1080p@60Hz and 4K@120Hz

Got an ultrawide 3440x 1440p OLED alienware monitor recently to replace my main 1440p monitor and use my my old monitor as a secondary. I love my PS3 even though I'm primarily a PC gamer and emulate most ps3 games I'd rather use the original hardware to play my games and get a nostalgia kick.The Mclassic on my old 1440p monitor would upscale 720p to 1440p no problem. But on my Alienware ultrawide 3440x1440p the Mclassic would upscale 720p to 1080p, while I'm aware I'm still going to get 16:9 image with the black bars on the side. No matter what I tried Mclassic would only do 1080p on that monitor. Did some research and found that I could only do for two options with the PS3 as the PS3 has HDCP protection either get a HDMI splitter that strips away HDCP which accordance recent reddit threads are a hit or miss on Amazon or have this plug which has HDCP pass through and trick the Mclassic into putting a 1440p signal out. The way I got it to work was copied the eid from old 1440p and I can use 1440p on my ultrawide. Got this as other plugs don't support HDCP passthrough. My case is a very niche use case scenario but it ends up working out.

42in 4k TVs has similar pixel density to 27in 1440p monitors. They're also similar width as 38in Ultra-wide monitors but have a little bit additional vertical space [3840x2160 vs 3840x1600] so you don't need a bottom/top monitor setup. Price-wise, the 42in C2 OLED goes for similar price as those Ultra-wides and 43in IPS monitors are way cheaper ($300). Running a single 4k monitor is also much easier / more compatible on most computers than running multiple 4k monitors or Ultra-wide with nonstandard resolutions.The only con to using a small TV as a computer monitor is when you turn off the TV and the computer (specially Macbooks in calm-shell mode) thinks the display disconnected and goes to sleep. The annoying kind where it doesn't always wake up when you come back to it and move the mouse/keyboard. The only way is to open up the lid, login and wait for the computer to repositions the displays.This handle little dongle solves that problem! It'll make your computer think there's always a display so it doesn't go to sleep. Another issue is that cheaper EDID emulators can't do 4k YCbCr 4:4:4, which means that things look okay initially but certain text becomes impossible to read due to the compression down to 4:2:0.I tried about 10 different EDID solutions. Many claim it could learn the EDID of your monitor and pass it along but this is the only one that successfully does it besides the $40 Prophecy mini box.I'm using this with a 2020 Macbook Air M1 -> cheap OTTO USBc mini dock with HDMI 2.0 -> THIS EDID Emulator -> cheap 4k HDMI 2.0b KVM switch -> LG 43in 4k TV. The Computer thinks it's always directly connected to the TV.With fully calibrated colors in YCbCr 4:4:4, running at 4k @ 60hz, this setup is somehow relatively cheap and nice quality! There are many prosumer displays running in the $300-800 that cannot match its quality and usefulness.

This little device really works, if you master how to use it. I will buy another one as a spare.

It works! Directions can be a little unclear, and the best way to understand it is to sit down and go through the steps. Here is a quick summary...There are two colors...Blue and Green.Green is a factory Pre-Set EDID of 1080P...it will always be 1080P when green.Blue is the programmed EDID. Hold the button down until it stopps blinking when copying an EDID.Green is the Factory Pre-Set EDID.Blue is whatever EDID is saved into the unit.It works well and I have not had any issues with it. Learning how it functions consumed the most time. For the price of $20, it is hard to beat. There are cheaper fixed EDID adapters (the $7 ones) and those are hit and miss. If it works? Yay! If it doesn't? Boo!

Passthrough didn't work as expected (always only showed 1080p) but it's not my use case, so I didn't try at all to fix it and don't care. I'm just using this as a dummy plug and cloned one of the 2.0 ports on my A80J with no issue. Glorious 4K60 HDR.Bonus round: I tried copying the 2.1 port and it worked flawlessly with an easily fixed initial issue. I got super lower resolution at first that could not be changed (all expected resolutions were available, but changing to them failed, albeit with a success message). I went into CRU, deleted and re-added the "HDMI 2.1 support" entry in the extension block, and it worked. 4K120 HDR, 12 bpc. Went through three other dummy plugs that could not do this.

This is much better than the cheaper EDID emulators. It copies the EDID information of your actual monitor, so the available resolutions are correct and the monitor name is "DELLXYZ" instead of "randomfareastmanufacturernameXYZ". I have two of the cheap emulators on KVM outputs for my personal machines and they work ok, but they did not work at all for my locked down company laptop. I assume HDCP was the problem, but this emulator had no problem. I'm going to switch my two other machines to this emulator.

The item works, but it is not an HDMI 2.0. I cannot get the refresh rate to increase over 60hz. I am following all the steps correctly. If refresh rate is important to you, look for something else.

This device was dead out of the box. Never powered up or functioned at all.

This will solve EDID and HDCP issues. I had a Roku that wouldn't play nice with an HDMI switch. You could Initially start with the Roku, then switch away but never switch back to the Roku. You would need to reboot the Roku every time to get it to handshake again to work. Simply unplugging and replugging the HDMI, wouldn't work. Simple EDID emulators alone couldn't resolve this issue, but this product can.

Am Raspberry Pi speichert er die Daten des Monitors, so dass man den ausschalten oder abstecken kann, um im Normalfall z.B. per VNC zuzugreifen.Am Banana Pi klappt es leider nicht, der erkennt auch mit dem angesteckten Emulator keinen Monitor.