Rectorseal 83114 2 EZ 113B Trap Kit with Brush

nice product easy to install

I ordered this as my mother's air handler overflowed years ago and the resulting damage was almost 3K$. I watched several youtube videos and it seemed like a small investment that could save a lot of hassle and money down the line, and even though insurance covered most of her loss, it is never a good day when you notice water leaking through your ceiling.I bought a pair of Husky PVC cutters for about 20 to 25 dollars since anything that limits my time in an attic during the summer in Florida is always appreciated; makes this job easier although you can use a hacksaw if you want. I also bought a 2 foot length of 3/4 PVC pipe which is a pretty standard diameter for a residential condensate line, a 2 container package of the Oakey purple color primer & the clear glue used for connecting PVC pipe (about $8), a PVC elbow, and PVC "T", and 2 or 3 PVC Couplings. (All 3/4" PVC)I cut the A/C condensate line in two places, a few inches from the air handler and a few inches down the condensate line. I dry fit a 90 degree PVC elbow on the remaining PVC pipe coming out of the air handler, cut off about 3" from my 2 foot of new PVC pipe, connected that to the elbow, then dry fit this new Rectorseal kit on to that, cut off about 4" from my new PVC pipe that I dry fit to the rest of the condensate line (with a coupling fitting) that leads to the outside of the house. Basically, I just cut off PVC pipe as I went along just making sure that when a Coupling PVC fitting attached 2 pieces of PVC pipe, it was long enough to go at least an inch into the Coupling PVC fitting. Also, used the primer and glue to attach the see-through part to the Rectorseal PVC parts. When I was satisfied that everything fit well, I just disconnected the pieces and applied the primer and then glue to each fitting/pipe, slipped them together and turned each about 1/2" so they sealed well. The glue dries pretty quickly. I later decided to put in a "T" PVC fitting a few inches down the line from this new Rectorseal Trap Kit and attached a PCV pipe about 5" long pointing upward toward the roof which I left uncapped. Apparently, many techs recommend this as a vent so the water flows easier down the condensate line. This all sounds more complicated than it is; the bottom line is you want a condensate line/pipe with a "P trap" that fills with water in the bottom (on this set-up, the see-thru plastic tube allows you to see this water) so the A/C can't suck air from the attic or outside the dwelling through the condensate line/pipe, and at the same time, you want that same condensate line/pipe to always allow water to flow from the A/C air handler drain pan via a slight slope to a drain or some place outside the dwelling.This Trap Kit was useful to me as I wanted to flush the condensate line with white vinegar to prevent any blockages from forming, but there was no port for me to pour it into near the air handler where it would flow down the pipe to the outside. I also wanted to clean the [art of the pipe nearest the air handler to make sure no obstructions form at the very beginning on the pipe; this kit with its 3 ports allows me to do all that and also to see that the trap is full of water thus creating the necessary seal so air from the outside or attic isn't sucked into the air handler. There are many videos out there that explain this better and why this trap kit is an inexpensive, but valuable aid in making sure your condensate line can be flushed and your A/C doesn't leak condensate through your ceiling one day. Simple project that is well with the time to do it.

N/A

My HVAC system is a high efficiency system that recommended a minimum of 2" between the bottom of the two pipes and a minimum of 2" below the egress pipe.Finding such a p trap was difficult to find. However, I was able to use a 3/4" coupler to modify mine to meet this requirement.Installation was straight forward with some PVC primer and glue.

This product is super effective and convenient